Pretzel Bites

Warm the milk and 2 tablespoons of the butter in the microwave until the butter is just melted, about 90 seconds; do not boil. (Alternatively, warm them in a small saucepan.) Add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved; set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, yeast, and salt. Mix on low speed until well combined, about 1 minute. With the mixer on low, gradually add the warm milk/butter mixture to the bowl. When the dough forms a cohesive mass, switch from the paddle attachment to the dough hook. Knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth but still slightly tacky, about 5 minutes. (Alternatively, the dough can be mixed and kneaded by hand.) Shape the dough into a ball, place in a clean, lightly greased bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, in a 2-quart baking dish, combine the baking soda with 2¼ cups boiling water. Stir until the baking soda is dissolved; set aside and let cool to lukewarm (or cooler). (Before baking, you'll dip the pretzels into the solution, which will give them a rich brown crust and pretzel flavor.)

Preheat the oven to 450°F and set two oven racks in the centermost positions. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray.

Punch the dough to deflate it, then turn it out onto a clean work surface. (If the dough feels sticky, you can dust it with a bit of flour as needed.) Shape the dough into a log, then cut into 6 equal pieces; cover with a damp dishtowel so the dough doesn't dry out. One at a time, roll and stretch each piece with the palms of your hands into a 24-inch rope about ½-inch thick, holding the ends and slapping the middle of the rope on the counter as you stretch. Cut each rope crosswise into 1¼-inch pieces. They will shrink a bit as they sit; that's okay.

Working in batches, drop the pretzel dough bites into the baking soda solution, swish around, and let each batch sit for about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pretzel dough bites from the solution, letting any excess liquid drip off, then arrange the bites on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them about 1½ inches apart. Sprinkle evenly with the coarse salt. Bake until golden, switching the pans from top to bottom and front to back about halfway through cooking, for 8 to 9 minutes; watch the bottoms carefully as they can burn. Repeat with the remaining batches.

Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and brush on the baked pretzels. The pretzels are best enjoyed warm out of the oven or fresh on the same day.