Skillet-Baked Macaroni and Cheese

Heat oven to 375°F (190°C).

In a 10-inch ovenproof skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat and add the breadcrumbs. Toast the crumbs in the butter, stirring, until they're a light golden brown. Season with a pinch of salt and scrape crumbs into a dish to set aside. Swipe out the pan to clean it, if you wish.

Place uncooked pasta in a large bowl and cover with hot tap water. Soak for 10 minutes then drain it, shaking the pasta out.

Combine the three cheeses on the paper or board you've grated them onto.

Return your ovenproof skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in it.

Add the flour, whisking to combine. Add milk, 1/2 cup at a time, whisking to combine each addition with the butter-flour mixture until smooth.

When all milk is added, season with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, many grinds of black pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg, and cook, stirring, until mixture comes to a simmer and begins to thicken. Once simmering, cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring. Turn the burner off.

Setting aside 2/3 cup of the cheese mixture, add the rest of the cheeses to the sauce, stirring just until it has melted.

Taste the sauce and adjust seasonings if needed. Stir in drained pasta until evenly coated.

Sprinkle the surface with reserved cheese, followed by the toasted breadcrumbs.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Add another 5 minutes in the oven, if needed for it to soften.

If you want it a little more browned on top, run the pan briefly under your broiler for a minute.

Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes, then serve right away.