Guacamole

I always thought I was relatively alone in this approach of a minced vinaigrette coating an avocado chunk salad — most guacamoles I see are much chunkier or blended to a full paste — until I found my guacamole kin in chef Roberto Santibañez’s version in his 2011 Truly Mexican book as showcased in Food52’s Genius Recipes column and book.

The levels of each ingredient are slightly different, and it’s mashed in a molcajete (big, heavy mortar and pestle) instead of minced on a cutting board and it’s excellent. But I still revert to my way when I make it.

I like the ones that feel like a Pinky ball, or with slightly more give. Please don’t pull the stems out of them to check; it ruins all the ones you leave behind for others.

Do you have to make your own tortilla chips? No, that’s just for crazy people and/or people who bought a gazillion soft corn tortillas a few months ago and even with a serious taco habit, cannot get through them. Should you feel so inspired, cut your small corn tortillas into 8 wedges, heat a puddle of neutral oil over medium until a droplet of water dropped in hisses and sputters, and fry the chips, flipping as needed, for a couple of minutes on the first side and usually just one on the second. Look for golden edges but take them out slightly on the pale side as they like to keep cooking for a short bit. Drain on paper towels or a paper bag and immediately sprinkle with fine salt; it doesn’t stick the same if you sprinkle it on once they’re cool.