Ethereally Smooth Hummus

If using dried chickpeas: Soak chickpeas in a large bowl overnight, covered with at least twice their volume of cold water.

The next day, drain them, and sauté them in a medium saucepan with the baking soda for about three minutes.

Add 3 1/4 cups water and bring it to a boil. Skim any foam that floats to the surface.

Cook for 20 to 40 minutes, until tender.

Drain the chickpeas (saving the broth for soups or to thin the hummus) and cool enough to handle.

Peel the chickpeas by gently pressing to pop them out of their skins.

In a food processor, blend the chickpeas until powdery clumps form, about a minute.

Add the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt and blend until pureed.

With the machine running, drizzle in water or reserved chickpea cooking water until smooth and creamy.

Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more salt or lemon if needed.

Transfer the hummus to a bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

To serve, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with paprika.