Chicken Phở

Char onions and ginger: Heat the oven to 400°F. Put the onions and ginger on a lightly oiled baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, or until softened and lightly browned. [Alternate idea: If you have a gas range, just char them over a flame.]

Cook the chicken: Fill a large stockpot with water and bring to a boil. Add the roasted onions and ginger, chicken bones or wings, quartered chicken, salt, sugar, and any optional spices, then bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the chicken is cooked, about 30 minutes.

Remove the chicken and finish the broth: Use tongs to transfer the quartered chicken to a plate and let cool. Remove the meat from the bones and refrigerate. Return the skin and bones to the stockpot and simmer for 2 hours longer. Strain the chicken broth into a large soup pot and cook over high heat until reduced to 12 cups, about 15 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce; adjust to taste.

Prepare noodles: In a large bowl of warm water, soak the noodles until pliable, about 20 minutes. Prepare according to package instructions if they differ. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Drain the noodles, then add to the saucepan and boil until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain well. Divide the noodles between 6 large bowls and sprinkle with scallion.

Finish and serve the soup: Add the reserved chicken to the broth and simmer until heated through. Ladle the broth and chicken over the noodles. Serve with bean sprouts, basil, lime wedges, jalapeños, chili-garlic sauce, hoisin sauce, and crispy shallots.